Climbing Locations

North Carolina has some amazing places for climbing and rappelling that Scouts of all experience levels can enjoy. There are several natural rock climbing locations and places you can go for indoor climbing in the vicinity. Read below for more information about these fun climbing opportunities!

Description

South of Table Rock Mountain, The Chimneys area along the east side of Linville Gorge provides easy top-rope climbing routes (5.6-5.9) and rappels with outstanding views of the lower gorge. The Chimneys are seen as rock spires along the Mountains To Sea Trail (MTST), but the top-rope climbing areas consist of west facing cliffs, many with bolted anchors.

Nearby Devil’s Cellar on the north slope of Table Rock Mountain also provides excellent top-rope climbing opportunities (see separate entry). A day of climbing at The Chimneys can be combined with a day of climbing at Devil’s Cellar for a great weekend of adventure.

This site is popular with outdoor recreation clubs and can get crowded. In spring and fall, plan to camp at the primitive sites near the picnic area and be the first climbers on site.

Activities and Anchors

The two main climbing sites are along the MTST, about ½ mile south of the Table Rock Picnic Area. The two sites are only 20 yards apart, and the sites will be seen on the left from the trail. Some routes have heavy steel bolts thought to be placed in the early years of the Outward Bound School. Short access trails to the cliff-top areas reveal excellent natural anchors such as pine trees and rock slabs. For some routes, these anchors are 30-40 ft. from the cliff edge, so very long webbing loops and static ropes must be used to set top-rope anchors. At other routes, bolt anchors can be combined with natural anchors.

The most popular climbing routes will be obvious, but instructors should study the cliff-top areas for less obvious routes, some of which are bolted with modern climbing anchors. These anchors can be combined with readily available natural anchors.

Getting There

The Forest Service maintains a picnic area with pit toilets at the southern base of Table Rock. There is no water provided in this area. The MTST (white blaze) runs north-south through the picnic area and parking lot. Take this trail south from the parking lot, through the picnic area and along a rocky ridge for about ½ mile. The Chimneys can be seen as rock spires along the ridge. The trail will descend off the ridge, and you will see the climbing sites on the left.

The Table Rock Picnic Area is located on the east rim of Linville Gorge and can be accessed by taking I-40 to the Morganton exit, or by taking US-421 to the Blue Ridge Parkway just outside of Boone. From both approaches, you will use NC-181 to access the gorge. NC-181 runs north-south along the east rim.

Coming up from Morganton on NC-181, you will see the Forest Service sign for the Table Rock Picnic Area and take a left on to Simpson Creek Road. Take a right on to Table Rock Road and follow the signs to the Picnic Area parking lot. A last Picnic Area sign will be at the left turn on to FS 210B, which will pass the Outward Bound School on the way to Table Rock.

Coming from Boone on the Blue Ridge Parkway, look for the NC-181 Morganton exit near Linville Falls. On NC-181, look for the Forest Service Table Rock sign and take a right on to Ginger Cake Road. Ginger Cake Road is a loop, and you will be turning on the bottom of the loop. Table Rock Road will veer off to the left. This is a gravel road with many switch-backs. Look for the last Picnic Area sign for the right turn on to FS 210B, which will pass the Outward Bound School on the way to Table Rock.

Reference Google Maps, satellite view, (keywords: ‘ginger cake road and table rock road, jonas ridge, nc’) for a good map view of the NC-181 area.

Camping

The MTST leads south through the picnic area, and just beyond the Picnic Area are several open areas suitable for primitive group camping. Seasonal permits are required and can be obtained from the Pisgah National Forest, Grandfather Ranger District (828.652.2144).

A variety of National Forest and Blue Ridge Parkway sites are located nearby with several private RV-style campgrounds located along NC-181.

Emergency Planning

Phone service can be limited in this area but will be best along NC-181. Be prepared for an emergency evacuation to NC-181 for EMS 911 support.

This area is frequented by violent thunderstorms in the summer. Plan accordingly to complete climbing activities by mid-afternoon, and continuously monitor weather conditions.

FRS radios, with weather frequencies, are highly recommended for coordinating unit activities.

Pisgah National Forest, Grandfather Ranger District: 828.652.2144.

Grace Hospital, 2201 South Sterling Street, Morganton, NC, 828.580.5000. Take Table Rock Road right from the Picnic Area. Then turn right on to NC-181 heading to Morganton and follow the blue hospital signs.

Description

Table Rock Mountain is a famed climbing crag on the east rim of Linville Gorge. BSA climbers will enjoy top-rope climbing and rappelling at the Devil’s Cellar gulley on the north side of the mountain. The west side of this gulley provides a variety of face climbs and long rappels. Midway down the gulley is a short cave shaft that leads a few feet down into a small cave that opens out at the bottom of the gulley. This unique feature allows rappels that descend into the cave room or top-rope belays for climbing out of the cave through the shaft. Facing north, this site is pleasantly cool throughout the summer but can be icy during the winter.

The Chimneys area to the south of Table Rock offers easy top-rope climbing routes and rappels with amazing views of the lower gorge (see separate entry). A day of climbing at Devil’s Cellar can be combined with a day of climbing at The Chimneys for a great weekend of adventure.

Activities and Anchors

At the top of the gulley, looking out, the left side (west side) has a nice progression of face climbs that are easily anchored for top-rope belays. The routes progress in difficulty (5.6-5.10) as you move out from the top of the gulley. Anchors consist of pine trees and rock slabs that are 20-30 ft. from the cliff edge, so large webbing loops or a static rope are needed to build the anchor systems. While building anchors, it is very useful to have an instructor on the floor of the gulley to help locate the best top-rope anchor points for the climbing routes.

About 20 yards out on the west side, you will see a huge rock slab that you can sling with webbing for an excellent chest-high rappel anchor. This rappel route has a perfect ledge for an instructor to manage participants, and there are several anchors for safety lines. This rappel can be set up either as a double-rope rappel or as a single-rope releasable rappel with a top-rope belay.

A few yards farther out is an excellent rappel site that allows participants to descend into the Devil’s Cellar cave. It can be anchored by a pine tree and a rock slab. Experienced instructors can use this same static rope as a top-rope anchor for belaying climbers coming out of the cave shaft (‘the cellar’). Additional anchors are needed to stabilize this belay point to prevent swing and to ensure braking action of the ATC.

This site is very exposed with sharp drop offs. In addition to the required climbing staff, adult unit leaders are needed at the top and bottom for crowd control and safety. This site is recommended for mature participants with good safety discipline.

Getting There

The Forest Service maintains a picnic area with pit toilets at the southern base of Table Rock. There is no water provided in this area. The MTST (white blaze) runs north-south through the picnic area and parking lot. Take this trail north from the parking lot to a saddle between Little Table Rock knob and Table Rock Mountain. From the saddle, the trail descends northeast, and the summit trail will veer up to the right. The summit trail follows the north face of Table Rock. As the trail passes through two large boulders (10-15 ft. high), look for a narrow path to the left that leads 30 yards to the top of the Devil’s Cellar gulley. Continuing on the summit trail affords incredible views of the upper gorge and should be part of any visit.

See the entry for The Chimneys for additional information.

Camping

See the entry for The Chimneys for additional information.

Emergency Planning

See the entry for The Chimneys for additional information.

Description

This is a small site with a variety of face climbing routes that have easy access for top-rope anchors. Great for beginners, the routes range from a 5.4 scramble to the 5.12 trad classic, ‘Changeling.’ The crag is shaded in summer and gets winter sun in the afternoon. It is a popular site and can get crowded quickly on the weekends. Facing the rock, routes are easiest on the right and progress in difficulty going to the left. There are three crack routes from 5.7 to 5.9. This site provides a great opportunity to practice lead climbing with the BSA-required top-rope belay.

Activities and Anchors

Access for top-rope belay anchors is by rough trails on either side of the crag. Top-rope anchors consist mostly of large, living trees and some rock slabs. Anchors are far from the top cliff edge, so long webbing loops (20-30 ft.) are needed to set top-rope belay anchors. Another approach is to use a single static rope to tie-in to two or more anchors. There are no bolts for top-rope anchors. WARNING: The cliff-top area slopes moderately to the cliff edge, so safety lines must be used immediately as you enter the cliff-top area.

The site has several good rappel routes. As noted above, anchors are set 20-30 ft. from the cliff edge, and the rappel rope can be redirected to a chest-high anchor point using trees nearest to the cliff edge.

Getting There

From Boone, take HWY 105 south to Foscoe (where the speed limit drops to 35). Turn left onto Church Road (by the gas station), and take another left onto Holloway Mountain Rd (gravel). Park in one of two pull-offs on the right side of the road, only about a quarter-mile up the road. DO NOT PARK DIRECTLY ON THE ROAD AT THE TRAILHEAD. Hike up the road a short distance until you see the trail on your left. A very short, steep hike will put you at the cliff, directly in front of the tallest routes. The area can also be accessed from the Blue Ridge Parkway at the US221-Holloway Mountain Road exit, south of Julian Price Park.

Camping

There is no camping at this site. However, there are many public campgrounds along the Blue Ridge Parkway, including Julian Price Park and Linville Falls.

Emergency Planning

Phone service can be limited in this area. Be prepared for emergency evacuation to NC105 at Foscoe for EMS.

Watauga Medical Center, 336 Deerfield Road, Boone, NC, 828.262.4100. Take Holloway Mountain Road to Foscoe and take NC105 to Boone. In Boone, follow the blue hospital signs.

Description

Pilot Mountain State Park is an excellent climbing site with accessible top-rope belay anchors. The site has a wide range of routes, with 5.5 routes for beginners up to 5.10 and 5.11 routes for the experienced climber. Climbers will be thrilled by the great views and enjoy being eye-to-eye with soaring hawks and vultures. The parking lot at the top of the mountain provides easy access to the climbing sites, picnic areas and restrooms. The access trail for the climbing area passes by the top of the routes, making it easier to set up routes. Primary access to the bottom of the climbing area is by the Three Bears Gulley, and a large sign marks this trail. It is a steep Class 3 trail and may need ropes to assist descent for some participants.

The climbing area faces south and provides excellent climbing in fall, winter and spring. In summer, high temperatures and sun exposure must be managed carefully.

Activities and Anchors

Register at the kiosk by the parking lot and follow the Ledge Springs trail down into the woods. The most common access trail is at the Three Bears Gully (there is a sign that marks this descent). Use caution on the descent, it can be slippery at the top. The gully puts you at the Three Bears/Any Major Dude area. The Amphitheater is to the climber’s right (facing the crag) from here, and Eight Ball is to the climber’s left.

The Carolina Climbers Coalition (http://carolinaclimbers.org/) provides an excellent guide for this site:
http://carolinaclimbers.org/pilot-mountain/guide-book.html (version 2, 9/17/2010)

Please read and follow the Park Superintendent’s guidance on page four for how to enjoy the park as a good climbing citizen!

Many routes at Pilot Mountain have bolted anchors, and all routes have a good selection of solid natural anchors like large trees, boulders and slabs. You will need long lengths of webbing for these anchors, and 40-50 ft. static rope is also very useful for building anchors. Protect all trees with canvas or other padding.

Facing the Three Bears Gulley, to the right, popular routes in the Little Amphitheater include:

  • Pee Break 5.6 (left route only, right is closed and bolts removed)
  • Buzzards Breath 5.7
  • Grandpa’s Belay 5.7
  • Kiss My Arse (KMA) 5.8-5.10
  • Place Your Bet 5.6

To the left of the Three Bears Gulley, popular routes in the Three Bears area include:

  • Honey Pot 5.5
  • Every Major Dudette 5.5
  • Howdy Dude 5.6

There are many popular rappelling sites at Pilot Mountain as well. The easiest to set up include the large pine tree at the top of Kiss My Arse and the large boulder at the top of Buzzard’s Breath.

Getting There

From Winston-Salem, follow Highway 52 North. Look for signs for Pilot Mountain State Park. Take that exit, turn left and follow the signs to the park entrance just down the road on the left. Follow the park road all the way to the top, and park in the back of the parking area near the overlook to be closest to the trail.

Camping

The park has family camping on the mountain and a group site located along the Yadkin River about 30 minutes away. Contact the park office for information and reservations: 336.325.2355.

Emergency Planning

Cell phone service is available in the parking lot but is limited at the bottom of the climbing routes. EMS 911 service is available, and you can call Surry County EMS directly at 336.783.9000 or call the Park Office at 336.325.2355 for support.

The nearest hospital is Northern Hospital in Surry County, 12 miles north on Highway 52 in Mount Airy, NC, and you follow 601 North to get there (336.719.7000). The nearest trauma hospital is Wake Forest University Baptist in Winston-Salem, NC (336.716.2255).

Triangle Rock Club

Triangle Rock Club (TRC) has several locations around the Triangle area of NC. Check out their website for more details.

http://trianglerockclub.com/

TRC is great because they have certified climbing merit badge instructors and offer fun “lock-ins” for Scouting groups. They also feature “Scout Saturdays” where Scouts pay just $10 a head from 8-10 a.m. They have equipment on site to accommodate Cub Scouts as well.